Dummy Factory

Deborah Turbeville made this picture at the Wolf Dummy Form Factory in 1974 as part of an advertising campaign for shoe designer Charles Jourdan. She featured costumes by then up-and-coming designer Betsey Johnson, who also served as the shoot’s stylist.

In the 1970s a handful of female fashion and advertising pho-tographers explored ideas about femininity and sensuality that were previously absent from fashion magazines and thus met with resistance. Turbeville, who began her career as a fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, stood apart within this group for her overt rejection of styles that privileged male fantasies—her way of responding to the sexual revolution.